A Woman's Work...

Decorator Suzanne Rheinstein collects embroidery and other types of needlework, many of which are showcased
beautifully in At Home: A Style for Today with Things from the Past.

Embroidery has often been known, somewhat pejoratively, as "women's work." The reason for the dismissive attitude, I suppose, stems from the art form's reputation as a pursuit practiced and enjoyed exclusively by the leisure classes. Now, this is largely true, of course, especially prior to the 19th century. But even in more distant eras, the art form often served a dual purpose. One glance at Austen's oeuvre, for example, makes it apparent that embroidery was not simply done to pass the time, but also presented a relatively subtle way to show off an eligible daughter's ability to make fine, delicate, pretty things. Stitch a delicate doily, ensnare a husband--or something like that.

A trio of antique embroidered silk flower pictures hang above a nightstand,
courtesy of At Home: A Style for Today with Things from the Past.

In 1800s, however, an interesting shift occurs: more and more, women start using embroidery as a way to support themselves. In 1872, The Royal School of Art-Needlework opened in South Kensington, London, precisely for the purposes of professional training of--and this is their term--"decayed gentlewomen." (Interesting to note that the school still exists today as a charity and actually assisted designer Sarah Burton with Kate Middleton's wedding gown.)

In 1876, some embroidery done by students of this new Royal School was exhibited at the Centennial Exposition in Philadelphia. A woman named Candace Wheeler saw the exhibit and realized that America needed a similar school on its shores. Well, of course it did: more than 600,000 men had died during the Civil War. Add to that the financial depression and panic of 1873, and many families were simply destitute. Middle class women--that is, former middle class women--often had minimal education and work experience, and thus were better off burnishing on of the few skills they already had. And so, in 1877, Wheeler formed the Society of Decorative Art in New York City.  The widow of General George Armstrong Custer, unable to survive on her meager pension, soon came to work there as a secretary.*

Early 19th century silk needlework and watercolor picture, at Skinner August 14th, estimate $1,500-2,500.

Why such a lengthy back story?  Because I think it is interesting to look though "women's work" though this lens: not as busywork for idle fingers, but as one of the first ways that women were allowed to support themselves in society without fear of ostracism. These pretty pieces, in other words, can been seen as golden tickets to a better life.

One of a lot of two continental needlework pictures, at James D. Julia in Maine, August 23rd, estimate $800-1,200.

 The reason we're discussing embroidery at all is because several auction houses currently have impressive specimens on display, the most exciting array at Skinner. The Boston auction house will hold its American Furniture and Decorative Arts Sale on August 14th. Its catalog showcases some of the finest needlework, much of it by known artists. These items are not cheap: many go for well over $1,000 apiece. But for those interested in this art form--as I am--it's helpful to look at the creme de la creme before searching for your own more modest treasures. (Though if you think these are expensive at auction, look at what a premier dealer charges!)

Silk embroidered pouch, early 19th c, at auction August 14th, estimate $1,500-$1,800.

One highly collected category is momento mori, or momentos that honor the dead. This silk pouch, above, has such delicate embroidery and is in beautiful condition, especially considering that it is 200 years old. Below, we have two more classically styled silk memorial pictures. Note the weeping willows in all of three of these items, a classic symbol of loss and mourning.

Silk memorial picture, 1811, at Skinner on August 14th, estimate $2,000-4,000.

19th c. memorial needlework by Alida Graverat Dunbar,
at auction in Thomaston, Maine on August 27th, estimate $3,500-4,500.

But as mentioned, not all needlework is this costly, partially because not all needlework has survived in such pristine condition--or done by such a skilled hand to begin with. The framed Victorian needlework, below, is an case in point. While the work is quite lovely, the silk is fairly spotted.

Framed Victorian needlework, at auction August 12th, estimate $80-120.

Stair Galleries, the well known auction house in Hudson, New York, has several lovely examples up for bidding at its American Exposition Sale. (Note "exposition" is used to indicate a quality level that is more decorative than collectable, neophytes should absolutely look for this word in auction titles!)

19th century silk needlework picture of a basket of fruit,
at Stair, August 13th, estimate $200-400.

Victorian silkwork, "Piety." (Forgive the odd cropping--that's on me.)
At Stair Galleries on August 13th, estimate $300-500.

Some people shy away from this style of art because they aren't sure how to incorporate it without their homes looking old fashioned.Needlework does seem to blend more naturally with traditional decors, certainly, but that doesn't have to mean formal or stuffy. Suzanne Rheinstein has countless examples in her book (in addition to the ones I've illustrated above). Below are a variety of additional interiors that would be well suited to a few pieces of needlework.

photo: William Abranowicz
Mari Ann and Michael Maher's home, courtesy of Elle Decor.

photo: John M. Hall
Jane and Stephan Garmey's home, courtesy of Elle Decor.

photo: Simon Upton

Kit and Tim Kemp's home, courtesy of Elle Decor.

photo: Miguel Flores-Vianna

  A Miles Redd designed bedroom, courtesy of Elle Decor.

photo: Roger Davies

  A bedroom designed by Roberto Peregalli and Laura Rimini, courtesy of Elle Decor.

I finish with a great piece of women's work that is not embroidery to be sure, but I bet will make you smile! Happy Bidding, everyone!
 

Early 20th Century Pictorial Rug, in Boston August 14th, estimate $600-800.

 *Much of the background information in this posting comes from Donna Cardwell's informative book,Silk Art Embroidery: A Woman's History of Ornament & Empowerment.