Fall Fashions That Have Stood the Test of Time

Grace Kelly in her Oscar dress, designed by Edith Head

Labor Day. For many of us it is just as hot and sticky as it was a week ago; even so, it still feels different, doesn't it, knowing that we're now into September. Different colors stand out in the closet. Mums dominate the nurseries. The Earth has turned. The palette has shifted. Fall is on its way.

A Pierre Balmain gown, at Leslie Hindman Sept 20th, estimate $800-$1,200.

As we pack away the white and dig out that wool and cashmere, invariably there are some items that we're more excited to see than others. Perhaps you want to refurbish the wardrobe, but with talk of 0% job growth and further layoffs, the idea of spending $3,200 on this season's must have seems increasingly like a must not. For your limited budget, what you really need is more bang for your buck: things that you will love today as well as tomorrow. But how can you tell? One way is to buy vintage pieces that have already withstood the test of time. And a great place to do this is yeah, don't-you-know-it, at auction.

photo: copyright A.M.P.A.S.
Julia Roberts wins big in vintage Valentino

Buying vintage clothing and accessories at auction may seem strange at first, but this is really how most of the top vintage couture stores get their most coveted pieces (which they then quadruple in price...and that's if you're lucky). Stylists love shopping places such as Decades in Los Angeles or CIRCA in London for their movie star clientele. For one thing, its a way to guarantee no one else is wearing anything similar. For another, putting an actress in a 1950s silhouette more famously seen on Marilyn or Grace is a way of subtly (or not so subtly) suggesting that this looker, too, is a future icon.

 Norman Norell pink cape, at Leslie Hindman, Sept 20th,

 estimate $400-400.

Of course, purchasing vintage clothing at auction has one major drawback: you can't try things on. For that reason, the safest choice is to do the following:

1. Get all key measurements (In other words, ignore the label size.) Note that auction houses often don't provide measurements until close to the auction date. Within a week of the auction, most measurements (waist, hip, chest) should be listed in the description. If you need others, write the auction house and ask for them.
2. Take a similar item from your closet that fits you well and measure that.
3. When in doubt, buy larger. It's easier to tailor down than up.

If all this still scares you, then stick to scarves, purses, belts, costume jewelry and other items that require few or no measurements.

A vintage Hermes crocodile Kelly bag, at auction Sept 20th, estimate $6,000-8,000.

 Leslie Hindman will have a couture auction on Sept 20th, one of two the famed Chicago auction house holds annually. The roster of names is impressive: Oscar de la Renta, Chanel, Hermes, Mosbacher, Balmain, Valentino, Alexander McQueen and Lanvin to name a very few. Eighties designer Joan Vass's collection is being sold off here as well. Note that they do not yet have very many of the measurements listed, but that should change closer to the auction date, when they have the pieces on the floor and can evaluate them.

Hermes silk scarf, at auction September 20th, estimate $150-250.

Chanel clear crystal sautoir, in Chicago September 20th, estimate$800-1,200.
(If that estimate seems high, it's because Chanel is, by far, the most collected vintage label.)

An oil painting of John Wayne, 1945. At auction in Dallas on October 6th, estimate $4,000-6,000.

Besides couture sales, there is another category of vintage clothing for sale at auction: that which clad the bod of a famous celebrity. Doyle has the estate of Douglas Fairbanks on display right now, with Elizabeth Taylor and Joan Crawford to come later in the year. John Wayne's estate is selling off some items next month out of Dallas. Obviously, these pieces tend to be mounted, not worn, but for the less iconic items, especially from B-list celebrities, my attitude is, why not wear it? Makes for memorable dinner party conversation to be sure.

Douglas Fairbanks stepped here. At Doyle in New York on September 13th, estimate $150-250.

The studs of a stud. A collection of Douglas Fairbanks's links and studs, at auction September 13th, estimate $100-150.

So when you're doing your shopping and swooning over the price tags, keep in mind this alternative. Fall is coming, but it's still Pucci-party weather for now. Wear your vintage finds in good health and happy bidding, my dearlings!

Pucci maxi dresses. At auction September 20th, estimate, top, $400-600 and bottom, $400-600.